Following years of static presentations. Often you can argue that traditional sartorial houses of which Brioni is one of the foremost in Italy’s pantheon benefit from presenting their collections in an environment where you can push and pull at the garments, maybe even give them a test-drive for yourself.
Two-button notched suits Brioni’s bread and butter cut in super-light woolen silk there were hand-painted blocks and stripes in opaque shades of artist-mixed blue, green, and gold. Short-sleeve shirts, some similarly printed, some plain, were worn under also-sometimes-printed fine-knit T-shirts and over trousers a not at all bad summer smart-casual suggestion. A raw silk shirt over Bermudas was another. Parkas of Japanese nylon were marked by Scarpa, too. But along with referring to the architecture of someone else, Mullane played with the canonical elements of his own house. Belts were applied to tailored jackets, countryman style, and further rustication was expressed through suede elbow patches and incongruous suede patch pockets with exposed stitching.